The Dog Blog

2006-08-28T07:21:00.000-07:00

Dog Training Basics

The Technique To Test Whether Your Dog Is Ready To Train And Absolute Fun Ways To Train Your Dog

By: Jonathan Cheong

Coming when called is a vital skill that every dog must learn, both for its own safety and that of those around it. A disobedient dog that refuses to come when called could easily be hit by a car, get into a fight with another dog, or suffer a variety of other bad experiences.

A well trained dog that comes when called can safely be taken out to play in the local park, at the beach, on the hiking trail, or anywhere else the owner and dog may wish to go.

Basic training to come when called is relatively easy and straightforward, and involves providing praise, treats and other perks when the dog does as his owner wants. After these basic come when called training exercises are mastered, there are a number of fun exercises that can be introduced to challenge the dog and pique its interest.

Making training into a fun game is one of the best ways to motivate dog and handler alike. It is easy for training sessions to become routine and boring, and it is important to keep them from degenerating into this state.

Before beginning any food based training exercise, it is important to make sure that the dog is properly motivated and ready to respond to treat based training. Testing the dog is simply a matter of taking a piece of his regular food and waving it in front of the dog’s nose. If the dog shows great enthusiasm for the food, it is ready to start the training. If not, it is best to wait until the dog is in a more receptive mood.

The treats that work best for treat based training games like hide and seek are cut up quarter inch or smaller pieces of chicken, cheese or liver. In other words, something your dog will love. It is best to use very small pieces to avoid overfeeding the dog during he training sessions.

One great game for you and another family member or friend to play with your dog is simply back and forth recall. This is a great exercise for teaching your dog to come whenever it is called by a member of the family. Dogs often learn to only respond to one person, and this can be a problem when other people are watching the dog.

That is one reason why professional dog trainers always insist on working with the owner as well as the dog. A well trained dog must learn to respond to whoever is in charge, not just the owner or usual handler.

In the back and forth recall game, two or more people stand approximately ten yards apart, in a safe place like a fenced in yard. One person calls the dog and asks him to sit and stay until another person asks the dog to come.

When the dog responds to the command to come, it is rewarded with a treat. Most dogs respond wonderfully to this exercise and love playing this game. When playing the back and forth recall game, it is important that only the person who called the dog be allowed to give the dog a treat.

After the dog has mastered the back and forth recall game, the humans in the game can start to spread further out, thus turning the back and forth recall game into a fun game of hide and seek. The hide and seek game starts with two or more people in the center room of the house. Every time they call the dog to come, they spread out further away from where they started.

As the game continues, one person will be at one end of the house, while another may be at the opposite end. What makes the hide and seek game so much fun for the dog is that he must seek out the person to get the treat, instead of simply running up to a person in plain sight.

This type of seeking behavior appeals to many of the dog’s natural instincts. After all, dogs are naturally hunting animals, and seeking out food is second nature to them.

About the Author:Discover How You Can Train Your Dog With Immediate Effective Results Using Proven Simple Steps For FREE Click Here =>

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Proven Dog Training Methods

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In fact, it's so good, one former dog trainer sent Charlie a video endorsement for his book. And if you have a windows based pc, just click here to check out what he had to say.

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Dog Training

2006-06-06T12:33:00.000-07:00

Dog Training Basics . . .

Aggressive Jack Russell Terrier!

By Adam G. Katz

[Colleen writes:]

Dear Adam:

I have loved your book mostly because it has corrected many of the problems I was having with my Jack Russell Terrier. My biggest problem still exists...growling and biting. My Jack Russell "Fargo" 3 1/2 years old and is trained fairly well, but she still seems to think she is "Alpha" and I am "Beta".

The growling and snapping (biting) happens when she has a bone or chew toy, if she is sleeping on your lap and you disturb her. She has never broken skin and with the bones if I tell her to "drop it" in a stern voice usually a few times she will eventually drop it, but I would never just take it or reach into her space.

[Adam replies:] You’re not acting like an "Alpha" by letting her on your furniture… and especially by letting her lay on top of you. (It’s always the "Alpha dog" that’s on top.)

When she has a bone or a chew toy, you need to already have had the pinch collar and tab or leash on her. In fact, this should be on the dog anytime you are with her.

As for letting this dog growl at you while she’s sitting in your lap… NO WAY! You’re spoiling her. This is the behavior of a little brat-dog… and I think you know this. If she did this to me, I’d spread my legs and knock her off the couch, on to the floor… where she can THINK about the result of her action.

[Colleen continues:] If she is on your lap while watching TV and you try to get her to move she will growl and about a week ago she reached around to bite.

[Adam:] My question to you is: Why do you continue to let her on the couch. And secondly, what happens to the dog AS A RESULT of this behavior?

If it were my dog, I’d have to make sure that the dog received something SO undesirable (or negative) that she would think twice before pulling this nonsense on me again.

[Colleen continues:] She also has other times that she will growl and she puts our other dog in her place a lot (a 1 1/2 year old min. schnauzer). Both dogs are spayed.

[Adam:] This is normal. She is communicating to the other dog that she is the pack leader, just as she is to you. Simply put, she displays the aggression and it is a challenge to the other dog. The other dog in turn will either respond to the challenge by issuing his own challenge or he will submit.

[Colleen:] One night I tried to follow your book when I was trying to take chew toy away and she almost won. At one points she was almost hanging by the pinch collar.

[Adam:] Two things:

First, there is NOTHING in my book which suggests that you should hang the dog by the pinch collar. I think you may be confusing something that you read in my book with something you may have picked up from your trainer or from one of the old Koehler books. The pinch collar, used properly, should be administered with a quick tug and release.

Second, I will venture that there are a number of other things you are doing within the course of your life with your dog that communicate to her that she is the "Alpha" dog, not you. The techniques in my book work together to teach you a whole new way of working/viewing your dog. And especially when it comes to dominance aggression, you must incorporate all of the dominance-building exercises in conjunction with correcting your dog. (The main point I’m getting at here is that you’re letting the dog up on the couch which communicates ONE THING to your dog, but then trying to correct her, which communicates SOMETHING CONTRARY to your dog.) Make sense?

[Colleen:] I have been working the Jack Russell in training since she was 12 weeks old. I had a trainer (New England Dog Training) on Cape Cod until 2 years ago when I moved to Richmond VA. We discovered early that Fargo would not respond except with a pinch collar and for any off-leach work the trainer suggested a Tri-Tronics collar.

[Adam:] Yes, this is pretty common with the Jack Russell Terrier. There are an extremely dominant breed and are very pain insensitive.

[Colleen:] What do I do to stop this so I feel I can trust my otherwise wonderful companion? I will do whatever it takes. I have been tempted to use the most severe level of the electronic collar but I am afraid to. Out of 6 levels the highest we have gone is #4 orange.

[Adam:] Stop babying her. Begin treating her like a dog, not a child. Re-read the sections on dominance building and correcting your dog… especially the parts on not making her "collar smart."

If you are finding that your corrections with the e-collar are not motivational, then you MUST increase the setting level. Make sure you say, "NO!" before you stimulate her, so that she understands that the correction is coming from you. I would jump right to level 6. You can always later move down to a lower setting, once she takes you serious.

What’s that worst that can happen? She decides to never bite you again?

Please keep me posted as to your progress.
- Adam.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

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Dog Training Basics

2006-05-24T03:32:00.000-07:00

Dog Training Basics

The Intelligent Way To Eliminate Your Puppy Biting Behaviors

By: Jonathan Cheong

Bringing home a new puppy is always an exciting time. Introducing the new puppy to the family should be fun for both yourself and your puppy. One of the first challenges, however, to the excitement of the new puppy, is curbing inappropriate puppy behaviors.

Preventing biting and mouthing

Biting and mouthing is a common activity for many young puppies and dogs. Puppies naturally bite and mouth each other when playing with siblings, and they extend this behavior to their human companions. While other puppies have thick skin, however, humans do not, so it is important to teach your puppy what is appropriate, and what is not, when it comes to using those sharp teeth.

The first part of training the puppy is to inhibit the biting reflex. Biting might be cute and harmless with a 5 pound puppy, but it is neither cute nor harmless when that dog has grown to adulthood. Therefore, puppies should be taught to control their bite before they reach the age of four months.

Puppies normally learn to inhibit their bite from their mothers and their littermates, but since they are taken away from their mothers so young, many never learn this important lesson. It is therefore up to the humans in the puppy’s life to teach this lesson.

One great way to inhibit the biting reflex is to allow the puppy to play and socialize with other puppies and socialized older dogs. Puppies love to tumble, roll and play with each other, and when puppies play they bite each other constantly.

This is the best way for puppies to learn to control themselves when they bite. If one puppy becomes too rough when playing, the rest of the group will punish him for that inappropriate behavior. Through this type of socialization, the puppy will learn to control his biting reflex.

Proper socialization has other benefits as well, including teaching the dog to not be fearful of other dogs, and to work off their excess energy.

Puppies that are allowed to play with other puppies learn important socialization skills generally learn to become better members of their human family. Puppies that get less socialization can be more destructive, more hyperactive and exhibit other problem behaviors.

In addition, lack of socialization in puppies often causes fearful and aggressive behaviors to develop. Dogs often react aggressively to new situations, especially if they are not properly socialized. In order for a dog to become a member of the community as well as the household, it should be socialized to other people, especially children.

Dogs make a distinction between their owners and other people, and between children and adults. It is important, therefore, to introduce the puppy to both children and adults.

The best time to socialize a puppy to young children is when it is still very young, generally when it is four months old or younger. One reason for this is that mothers of young children may be understandably reluctant to allow their children to approach large dogs or older puppies. This is especially true with large breed dogs, or with breeds of dogs that have a reputation for aggressive behavior.

Using trust to prevent biting

Teaching your puppy to trust and respect you is a very effective way to prevent biting. Gaining the trust and respect of your dog is the basis for all dog training, and for correcting problem behaviors.

It is important to never hit or slap the puppy, either during training or any other time. Physical punishment is the surest way to erode the trust and respect that must form the basis of an effective training program. Reprimanding a dog will not stop him from biting – it will simply scare and confuse him.

Training a puppy not to bite is a vital part of any puppy training program. Biting behaviors that are not corrected will only get worse, and what seemed like harmless behavior in a puppy can quickly escalate to dangerous, destructive behavior in an adult dog.

About the Author:Discover How You Can Train Your Dog With Immediate Effective Results Using Proven Simple Steps For FREE Click Here =>

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Dog Training

2006-05-08T12:26:00.000-07:00

Dog Training Basics . . .

Your Dog Is Hyper-Active When You Get Home From Work… What Should You Do?

By Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam,

I am a member of the Bouvtrain list. That's how I got your name. I'm almost through your book and it has certainly given me some new ideas. Gypsy is a 1 1/2 year old Bouvier. She is very high-strung but we're working on it. You're absolutely right that it does no good to send your dog away to school. For $900 bucks she now does just what the dog trainer tells her to do. I'm getting a lot better, though.

Here's my question. I exercise her in the morning. We play ball for 30 minutes and then we walk a mile practicing sits, downs and stays. At night we play ball for about 15 minutes. I work from 10am to about 7pm. She stays in the kitchen with a dog door leading to a large 6' fenced back yard. She sleeps almost all day and she doesn't sleep at night. She paces and barks. I make her stay in the kitchen (baby gates) so I can get some sleep. I don't know any other Bouviers so I don't know if this is normal or not. She has hip dysplasia and has had hip surgery. I thought it might be pain so tried giving her an aspirin at night. Didn't help. I tried getting up to correct her but she hears me and gets in bed before I get there. Right now I'm just trying to ignore her. The kitchen has a large bay window to the front of the house but there are curtains. She's been doing this for months and I haven't had a full nights sleep in months, either. Would crating her help?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Robbye and Gypsy

Dear Robbye:

Thanks for sending me this e-mail. It’s a perfect example as to why simply "ignoring" bad behavior will never work on dogs that care more about pleasing themselves than anything else.

Here are some tips:

1. When she starts to bark, you’ll need to yell, "No!" from your bedroom, and then continue saying, "No, no, no!" as you run to her and administer a correction. It doesn’t matter if she climbs back in her bed at this point, as you’ve already used the word, "No!" as an event-marker. So she’ll know what she’s being corrected for. As long as you continue saying, "No!" you have an additional 7 to 14 seconds in which the dog will still associate your correction with the behavior.

2. Put a crate in your bedroom and let her sleep in it. Even though it doesn’t seem like much to us humans, dogs think that sleeping together is quality time when they’re not alone. This can help with some of her anxiety.

3. You may also try just putting her on a leash and attaching the leash to the foot of your bed. If she knows a down-stay, you can simply correct her if she gets up. After a couple of evenings, she’ll learn that when you bring her into the bedroom and make her lay down, it’s time to stay put.

4. If you don’t feel that her hip is bothering her, I would recommend increasing the amount of exercise time. Feed her as soon as you get home from work and then take her out and play ball for at least 30 minutes. An hour would be even better.

5. If you can’t play ball with her for a whole hour, then work her through a very intense obedience routine (heel, sit, heel, down, come, heel, etc…) for about 15 minutes and then play ball with her for another 10 minutes.

When I lived in Berkeley, California I had an American Pit Bull Terrier that was a very high-energy bitch. If I took her to the park on a Monday afternoon and played fetch for a whole hour, we’d later return to my apartment and within 20 minutes she’d be bouncing off the walls again.

However, if I took her out on a Wednesday and we simply did an intense obedience routine for 20 minutes, we’d return to the apartment and she would collapse under my coffee table and not move for the next 2 hours.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

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Dog Training Basics

2006-04-26T02:43:00.000-07:00

Dog Training Basics

Advice To Using Positive Reinforcement And Rewards To Train Your Dog

By: Jonathan Cheong

Training dogs using positive reinforcement and reward training has long been recognized as both highly effective for the owner and a positive experience for the dog. Positive reinforcement training is so important that it is the only method used to train dangerous animals like lions and tigers for work in circuses and in the movie and television industry.

Proponents of positive reinforcement swear by the effectiveness of their techniques, and it is true that the vast majority of dogs respond well to these training methods.

One reason that positive reinforcement training is so effective is that is uses rewards to teach the dog what is expected of it. When the dog performs the desired behavior, he is provided with a reward, most often in the form of a food treat, but it could be a scratch behind the ears, a rub under the chin or a pat on the head as well. The important thing is that the dog is rewarded consistently for doing the right thing.

Reward training has become increasingly popular in recent years, but chances are some sort of reward training between humans and dogs has been going on for hundreds if not thousands of years.

When understanding what makes reward training so effective, some knowledge of the history of humans and dogs is very helpful. The earliest dogs were probably wolf pups that were tamed and used by early humans for protection from predators, as alarm systems and later for guarding and herding livestock.

It is possible that the wolf pups that made the best companions were the most easily trained, or it is possible that these early dogs were orphaned or abandoned wolf pups. Whatever their origin, there is little doubt today that the vast variety of dogs we see today have their origin in the humble wolf.

Wolf packs, like packs of wild dogs, operate on a strict pack hierarchy. Since wolf and dog packs hunt as a group, this type of hierarchy, and the cooperation it brings, is essential to the survival of the species.

Every dog in the pack knows his or her place in the pack, and except in the event of death or injury, the hierarchy, once established, rarely changes. Every dog, therefore, is hard wired by nature to look to the pack leader for guidance. The basis of all good dog training, including reward based training, is for the handler to set him or herself up as the pack leader. The pack leader is more than just the dominant dog, or the one who tells all the subordinates what to do. More importantly, the pack leader provides leadership and protection, and his or her leadership is vital to the success and survival of the pack.

It is important for the dog to see itself as part of a pack, to recognize the human as the leader of that pack, and to respect his or her authority. Some dogs are much easier to dominate than others. If you watch a group of puppies playing for a little while, you will quickly recognize the dominant and submissive personalities.

A dog with a more submissive personality will generally be easier to train using positive reinforcement, since he or she will not want to challenge the handler for leadership. Even dominant dogs, however, respond very well to positive reinforcement. There are, in fact, few dogs that do not respond well to positive reinforcement, also known as reward training.

Positive reinforcement is also the best way to retrain a dog that has behavior problems, especially one that has been abused in the past. Getting the respect and trust of an abused dog can be very difficult, and positive reinforcement is better than any other training method at creating this important bond.

No matter what type of dog you are working with, chances are it can be helped with positive reinforcement training methods. Based training methods on respect and trust, rather than on intimidation and fear, is the best way to get the most from any dog.

About the Author:Discover How You Can Train Your Dog With Immediate Effective Results Using Proven Simple Steps For FREE Click Here =>

http://www.absolute-dog-training.com

Source: www.isnare.com

Dog Training

2006-04-12T02:36:00.000-07:00

DogTraining
Using A Clicker Vs. Adopting The Flawed "Clicker Training Methodology!"
By Adam G. Katz

There are two points you must recognize:

1.) You CAN train a dog using a traditional approach AND use the clicker. It depends on your style, but yes... I've had very good results using the clicker as an event marker, and for getting the dog to understand a new behavior... especially a more complex behavior. However, THIS IS ONLY USED DURING THE FIRST PHASE OF TRAINING ... the "learning phase." Once you move into the reinforcement and proofing phase, the clicker loses it's benefits.

2.) The idea that "some methods work better for some dogs," is a falsehood. It stems from people who are not completely competent in working with dogs.

Here's where the misperception comes in:

TRUTH: Some dogs are very soft. These dogs you will emphasize more praise and build them up. Use of corrections are minimal, and depending upon the dog's temperament, may just be just a verbal correction to be motivational.

MYTH: These dogs never need to be told when they do something wrong, therefore a "different method" (i.e. clicker training) should be used. This is complete bunk.

Recognize that using a clicker as an event marker is not the "clicker training approach."

The clicker training approach requires that you keep your dog confined at all times that you are not following him around this house with a clicker to reward the right behavior. This is why it works so well with dolphins: Because they're confined in a small pool when they're not being trained.

In any event... I'm off on a tangent.

Using the clicker as ONE tool in your arsenal is fine. But using it to the exclusion of all the other tools at your disposal and you're being blind.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

One of many authenticated testimonials from customers using Adam's dog training techniques:

"He can accompany me anywhere... Out to dinner, the mall, airports, you name it..."

Hello Adam,

Thanks to you, I have the perfect Service Dog!

Your matter of fact approach is both easy to understand and implement because you explain why a dog thinks the way that he does.

Due to your training methods... Jasper has become not only a calm and wonderful companion but a well trained working dog. He can accompany me anywhere, out to dinner, the mall, airports you name it,... and we always get tons of compliments especially when they ask what program he came from and I explain he is owner trained!

He is trained to assist me with balance and braces me as we walk, he also anticipates my gait weaknesses which is always changing due to my Multiple Sclerosis and he will adjust himself to meet my balance needs.

He is also trained to help me get up from a sitting position or if I fall he will help me to stand, or get help for me if necessary. He loves to go get the mail or deliveries and bring them back to me with a single command, and our driveway is over 200 ft long! He has a totally reliable retrieve and can identify over 10 different objects by name. Most of this I attribute to your wonderful insight and advice thru your website and newsletters...

I am including a picture of Jasper and I at the Plaza Casino in Las Vegas from our last visit there.

THANK YOU

-- Sheryl and Jasper

"the night raider " SD ,Riverside,Ca.

P.S. Remember: One person CAN make a difference!

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Dog Training

2006-03-29T01:25:00.000-08:00

The Commands That Every Dog Owner Should Know That Will Lead To An Obedient Dog

By: Jonathan Cheong

The Commands That Every Dog Owner Should Know And How This Will Lead To A Happy, Clean And Obedient Dog That Will Not Cause Problems

There are of course many reasons for owners to want a calm, obedient and faithful dog. For one thing, obedient and trained dogs are happier dogs, less likely to get into tussles with people or with other dogs. Another reason is that many communities require that the dogs living in their neighborhoods be well trained. This is especially true for many breeds thought to have aggression and behavior problems – dog breeds like pit bulls and rottweilers for instance.

And of course, training your dog well will also make he or she a much better family companion, especially in households where there are young children. Many studies have shown that proper dog training makes a big impact when it comes to cutting down the number of dog bits and other behavior problems encountered by dog owning households.

When considering training your own dog, or having someone else help you train it, there are certain basic commands that must be mastered in order for a dog to be considered truly trained. These basic commands include:

• Heel – it is important that any dog learn to walk beside its owner on a loose lead, neither pulling ahead nor lagging behind

• Respond to the word No – the word no is one word that all dogs must learn. Training your dog to respond to this important word can save you a ton of trouble.

• Sit – Training your dog to sit on command is a vital part of any dog training program.

• Stay – A well trained dog should remain where his or her owner commands, so stay is a very important command in dog training.

• Down – Lying down on command is more than just a cute trick; it is a key component of any successful dog training program.

• Off – Forms the basis for later training, especially when training the dog not to chase people, cars, bikes, cats, etc.

Dog training does much more than just create an obedient, willing companion. Training your dog properly actually strengthens the bond that already exists between dog and handler. Dogs are pack animals, and they look to their pack leader to tell them what to do. The key to successful dog training is to set yourself up as that pack leader.

Establishing yourself as pack leader is a very important concept for any potential dog trainer to understand. There is only one leader in every pack of dogs, and the owner must establish him or herself as the dominant animal. Failure to do so leads to all manner of behavior problems.

A properly trained dog will respond properly to all the owner’s commands, and will not display anxiety, displeasure or confusion. A good dog training program will focus on allowing the dog to learn just what is expected of it, and will use positive reinforcement to reward desired behaviors.

In addition to making the dog a good member of the community, obedience training is a great way to fulfill some of the dog’s own needs, including the need for exercise, the security that comes with knowing what is expected of it, a feeling of accomplishment and a good working relationship with its handler. Dog training gives the dog an important job to do, and an important goal to reach.

Giving the dog a job is more important than you may think. Dogs were originally bred by humans to do important work, such as herding sheep, guarding property and protecting people. Many dogs today have no important job to do, and this can often lead to boredom and neurotic behavior.

Basic obedience training, and ongoing training sessions, provide the dog with an important job to do. This is especially important for high energy breeds like German shepherds and border collies. Training sessions are a great way for these high energy dogs to use up their extra energy and simply to enjoy themselves.

Incorporating playtime into your dog training sessions is a great way to prevent both yourself and your dog from becoming bored. Playing with your dog helps to strengthen the all important bond between you – the pack leader – and your dog.

About the Author:
Discover How You Can Train Your Dog With Techniques That The Professional Trainers Are Using - And How You Can Do It Too With Results! Click Here =>

http://www.absolute-dog-training.com

Source: www.isnare.com

Dog Training

2006-03-15T05:32:00.000-08:00

If You Own Two Dogs, Can You Control Who's The Alpha Dog?

By Adam G. Katz

A dog owner named Beth writes:

Dear Mr. Katz

:I have two cocker spaniels that are one year apart. The red and white female (Cassie)is almost two and spayed. The buff male (Peanut) is just one 1 years old and neutered. Peanut was rescued from a cocker shelter in October of 1999. He is incredibly devoted, a very good listener and quick learner. He is the ideal dog as he is very eager to please. Cassie on the other hand is the most independent and stubborn dog I have ever encountered (you've probably seen worse). She used to only listen to commands when she wanted but I have put a stop to that. I have had numerous problems with her dominant tendencies but have come a long way. She now views me as the alpha and only displays aggression when she is in pain -- specifically when I brush her. She has been diagnosed with allergies, is on allergy shots and has bad skin. This is not my problem though as I think I can work through this one with the use of the training collar.

ADAM INTERJECTS: It's very difficult to correct pain-response aggression. It's more of a reaction than anything else. Use the muzzle and restrain the dog when you need to give her shots. Other times (just so that she doesn't build a negative association to the muzzle) put it on, take it off, and then give her a cookie. Do this at random times.

BETH CONTINUES: Cassie displays a lot of dominance aggression toward Peanut. She growls when he tries to pick up a bone near her and when they play (or fight) she will "hump" him. I always feed her first, give her treats first, pet her first but Peanut just doesn't seem to get it. He will walk through the door before Cassie but after me. He is always one head length ahead of her when we walk outside. Further, I think he is trying to challenge her because the playing time more recently has turned into fighting. It's more barking than anything -- to date there has been no blood. However, Cassie usually is on top of him, pinning him to the ground, and he lets out this barking/yelping noise when she releases, he goes right after her again until I break it up.

She also displays the same aggression toward the cat. If the cat comes into her "area" when she is comfortable in front of the fire or if the cat even walks by one of her bones she goes crazy. She'll chase the cat away with growling and quickly running after her.

ADAM INTERJECTS AGAIN: You can correct this behavior. She will learn not to chase the cat in the house.

BETH CONTINUES: So here's the big question. What do I do? Do I continue to treat Cassie as the next in the pack? Do I let them fight it out? Do I continue to scold her for chasing the cat? HELP!

Any advice you can offer will be much appreciated. Your book is great by the way....

[She's referring to: Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer! Read more about it at: http://www.dogproblems.com/secretsbook.htm ]

Regards,
Beth

Dear Beth:

Thanks for the question.

There is ONE big point you're not conceptualizing: You can only affect your relationship with each dog. You can be dominant to both dogs. Or you can be dominant to only one dog. Or you can be viewed as the Omega dog (the most submissive one) by both dogs.

However, you cannot control how your dogs view each other. This is a topic I've written about in past issues of my e-zine. I'm going to reprint it for your benefit:

A subscriber wrote: "Thanks, Adam. I think I found the answer. 'We determine who will be the alpha dog.'Correct? "

My reply:

"No, no no!"

You cannot do this! It's impossible!!!

The dogs' temperaments are inherent. Only you can determine if you're dominant to the other dogs, by being MORE DOMINANT. But you cannot work it out for them.

You can control the dogs' behaviors and not allow any scuffles if you:

-are the alpha dog in the pack.

and

-you have voice control.

But as soon as you leave the dogs together-- unsupervised-- and go out for dinner... all bets are off. The dominant one will still be the dominant one.

Think of taking a group of four kids.

Kid#1 will grow up to be a Navy Seal, and then an Admiral.
Kid#2 will grow up to be a fierce criminal defense attorney.
Kid#3 will grow up to be a middle management executive for a large firm.
Kid#4: will grow up to be a peace activist and a socialist.

Now, when you leave the house every day for work, you may say, "Kid#4... you're in charge." And as long as you're around, Kid#4 may get the privileges of being the "so-called" top dog.

But as soon as you leave...

It's going to be a given that kid#3 and kid#4 are going to be the bottom dogs, and kid #1 and kid#2 will scrap-it-out to see who is REALLY the "top dog." Their genetics (and to some extent, upbringing-- depending upon their age) determines this. But it is the toughest kid who will become the group leader.

Even though kid #2 may be fairly tough in his own right, he will test kid#1... but will ultimately lose... as kid#1 is too tough.

Now, if kid#1 gets sick and has to stay in bed, then kid#2 becomes the new kid#1.

In other words, the "Alpha dog."

Until you get home.

Then you're the alpha dog, and he becomes the beta dog.

Get it?

Beth, as far as you've described your dogs' interactions... it doesn't sound to me like you've got a problem. It sounds just like play, or perhaps some dominance scuffles. However, without seeing the dogs in person it's impossible to tell for sure.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

Copyright 2002 By Dogproblems.com All Rights Reserved.

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Dog Training

2006-03-02T06:40:00.000-08:00

Here’s The 5 Important Considerations You Should Know When Using A Training Collar
By: Jonathan Cheong

The basic dog training collar goes by many names, including choke collar, choke chain, training collar, correction collar and slip collar. These training collars are among the most popular and most commonly used tools with both amateur and professional dog trainers.

While a training collar is an effective tool, like any tool it must be used properly in order to be effective for you and safe for the dog. Among the most important considerations when using a training collar are:

• How the collar fits the dog. It is essential that the training collar be properly fitted to the dog. A properly fitted training collar is easier to use and safer for the dog.

• Putting the training collar on properly. There is a right way and a wrong way to fit a training collar, and putting it on wrong will make it both ineffective and potentially dangerous.

• Using the collar properly. A training collar should be used as a sharp reminder to the dog, not as punishment. It is important that constant pressure be avoided when using a training collar.

• The weight of the chain and the size of the links on the training collar. It is important that the weight of the chain be appropriate to the size and weight of the dog.

• The placement of the collar on the dog. It is important to properly place the collar on the dog.

The importance of a properly fitted training collar

Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head.

It is also important to know that a training collar that is too long for the dog requires a great deal of finesse to use properly. A collar that is too long can still be used, but it will require more skill on the part of the handler. Properly sizing and measure the dog for a training collar. It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.

Fitting the collar properly

When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.

If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.

Finally, it is important to purchase a training collar that is well made and strong. Buying a high quality training collar, slip collar or choke collar is vital to the safety of yourself and your dog.

If the worst happens, and your dog’s training collar does break, it is important not to panic. Most dogs will be unaware that they have broken the collar, at least for a few minutes. In most cases, if you act as if the leash is still connected, you can probably get control of your dog back quickly.

When securing a loose dog, the best strategy is to make a quick slip lead by running the snap on the leash through its handle and then slipping it over the dog’s head. It may not be the best arrangement, but it will certainly do in a pinch.

About the Author:Discover How You Can Train Your Dog With Effective Results In Less Than 1 Week Using Proven Simple Steps For FREE! Click Here: http://www.absolute-dog-training.com

Source: www.isnare.com

2006-02-15T03:21:00.000-08:00

DOES YOUR PRAISE AFFECT YOUR DOG IN A POSITIVE WAY?
By Adam Katz

Dear Adam,

I have just finished reading your book and have been listening to your tapes.

Last summer, I took Tipper to an obedience class. [Edited] I came away feeling horrible and losing all of my confidence. [Edited] After all of those things, you have given me hope to try again.

But, here are my two : First, my praise seems to have no meaning....and I don't know how to make praise something that she wants. Second, Tipper has little motivation to come when called. So, I guess the question is: How do I make my praise and love something she wants? This kind of feels like a small question and I have a few more but I think with some thoughts on that and your book we have a chance to try again.

I really need some encouragement...please.
- Jen

Dear Jen:

Ever had a boyfriend who told you how much he loved you… EVERY HOUR?

I bet it was sweet… at first. But after awhile, it became annoying and lost it’s meaning.

It’s the same with dogs. If you’re constantly touching and praising your dog, after awhile your praise loses meaning.

Furthermore, it is your job to find out what motivates your dog. Food? A ball? Jumping around like a fool? A high pitched voice?

And once you’ve figured out what this is, DON’T DO IT ALL THE TIME. Reserve it for when your dog does something REALLY GOOD. (And use the drive building exercises I describe in the book to increase your dog’s drive).

Next, link whatever it is that motivates your dog with the phrase, “Good Dog.”

It really comes down to having a balanced relationship with your dog.

In addition, make sure that training for your dog is FUN… not work.

Every down-stay is an opportunity to finish the exercise and GET TO CHASE THE BALL. Every properly executed COME exercise IS A CHANCE TO GET YOUR HAPPY SPOT RUBBED! (Not yours, the dog’s stupid!)

Make sense?
- Adam.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

Copyright 2002 By Dogproblems.com All Rights Reserved.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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2006-02-01T06:25:00.000-08:00

Dog Training: How To "Lick" Your Dog's Incessant Licking Habit!
By: Caroline Kent

Does your dog seem to spend an infinite amount of time licking himself? Why is he doing it? And how do you, as a dog owner, correct that annoying licking habit? Here are five of the most common reasons why your dog might be incessantly licking himself and the solutions to correcting the habit.

1. Your dog might have developed an unrelenting licking habit because he needs a bath.

If your dog spends alot of time outside, romping through the woods, tramping in the mud, rolling in the grass or wading in the nearest stream or pond, he is probably dirty. So, your dog may be constantly licking himself because the dirt is irritating him! Plus, all that outdoor activity may have gotten him infested with ticks, fleas, mites, or lice. Your dog’s incessant licking may be an attempt to rid himself of those nasty varmints! Give him a bath with a veterinarian-approved flea and tick shampoo. Before bathing him, make sure you brush out all the mats and tangles from his coat or the bathing will make them worse.

2. Your dog might have developed a chronic licking habit because he has a skin disorder.

Some common skin disorders that a dog may develop are mange or dermatitis. Mange is a skin disease in dogs that is caused by various types of mites. The dermatitis could be caused by an allergic reaction to fleas, dust mites, mold or a certain brand of dog food. If you suspect that your dog has a case of mange or dermatitis, your veterinarian will be able to diagnose what the disorder is and prescribe a course of treatment.

3. Your dog might have developed a persistent licking habit because he is under stress.

The stress may be a result of a new adoption, physical abuse, separation anxiety, or even a reaction to a new food.

If you think separation anxiety might be the cause of his stress, there are several methods for solving the problem. Try exposing your dog to being alone for very short periods of time. When your dog has adjusted to being alone for that duration of time, gradually increase your departure period. If you must be away from your dog for a long period of time, while you are away at work, try to find a friend or neighbor who could come over and take him for a walk a couple of times during the day.

Perhaps a new dog in the family is causing the stress? It is very common to experience a period of stress and adjustment when a new dog is brought into a household that has an established pet. One way to help make the transition a little easier is to give your older dog alot of attention and love. It will let him know that he's still a vital part of the family. Just remember that it will take time for your dogs to adjust to one another and be one happy dog family!

Changing your dog’s diet can also cause stress. If you're thinking of feeding your dog a new brand of dry dog food, do it gradually and over a period of four days or longer. On the first day that you change the food, feed your dog one quarter of the new food with three quarters of the old food. Add in another quarter of the new food after a couple of days or so. After another two days, add in another quarter of the new dog food. Finally, after another couple of days or so, you will be able to leave out the old dog food entirely!

If you cannot determine the cause of your dog's stress, talk to your veterinarian. He'll be able to refer you to a dog behaviorist who will be able to determine the cause of your dogs stress. If your dog has severe separation anxiety, an anti-anxiety medication might be considered to alleviate the anxiety. Drugs are not a complete solution, however, and should be used along with a treatment program.

4. Your dog might have developed an incessant licking habit because he has an injury that has resulted in an open wound.

A dog that has developed an injury that has resulted in an open wound will lick himself incessantly in an attempt to clean the wound and keep it free from bacteria. Dog saliva has been proven to kill some germs and when your dog licks an open wound, it will aid in keeping the wound infection free.

Veterinarian treatment may be required if your dog appears to be in pain, the wound contains a foreign material and is deep enough to require stitches, is bleeding excessively or becomes infected.

5. Your dog might have developed a relentless licking habit because he has developed the bad habit of doing so.

Some dogs develop the habit of licking their paws incessantly despite them being clean, uninjured and parasite-free!

Your dog may develop the habit of constantly licking himself because he has alot of nervous energy and no way to alleviate the stress. He also may have learned this behavior because he is bored and this is a way to entertain himself!

Give your dog lots of time to play and run and work off any excess energy. If your dog is well-exercised and happy, he won't feel the need to relentlessly lick himself to relieve stress or boredom!

The information detailed above will help you discover and correct your dog's habit of chronic licking. With careful observation and a little attention to proper grooming, training, along with regular veterinarian visits, you can 'lick' your dog's incessant licking habit!

About the Author: For a free dog training guide containing dog and puppy training tips, articles, books, and information, visit http://freedogtrainingguide.com/

Source: www.isnare.com

2006-01-18T07:32:00.000-08:00

On Missing The Imprint Stage Of Puppyhood...

By Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam:

[From a previous e-mail which questioned why I recommend that dog owners don't try to train their dogs in a group class setting]

Yes, I understand about the imprint stages [two week stages from birth to 4 months of age in which a small amount of exposure will have a lasting affect on the dog's socialization to it's surroundings] but not everybody lives in the ideal world of getting their puppy at 6 to 8 weeks of age.

[The imprint stage when dogs learn dominant and subordinate behavior with other dogs. Missing this stage, or having a negative experience during this stage, can cause dog aggression later in life].

What are you then suggesting happens? There are a lot of people out there that don't know the first thing about dog training. So, all of these theories are great but how would that help somebody that comes to you when their dog is a couple of years old and displays canine aggression?

Regards,TB.

Dear TB:

Here's the deal: I don't have a lot of time to go into detail as this is a subject that could end up being another book. But to fix this type of thing, you need to:

#1: Establish yourself as the pack leader so that the dog respects you and what you say.

#2: Build a strong sit and down stay.

#3: Teach the dog that he must hold the positions around other dogs. It's your responsibility to make sure that the other dogs do not jump on him.

#4: With some dogs, the aggression can only be controlled. Other dogs will get comfortable enough, over time being around other dogs, that it will be eliminated. It really depends on the dog.

#5: The problem with group classes is that there is too much going on for your dog to really learn. Plus, the 10-on-1 nature means that YOUR instruction is lacking. It's a good environment if the dog is ALREADY TRAINED... as you can take advantage of the various distractions. [During the proofing stage, that is]. But for teaching the dog... no way!

And you don't have to trust my opinion. Just look at the caliber of training that you'll find with dogs that come out of group classes. They're substandard compared to dogs and owners that have worked just a few sessions with a competent dog trainer.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

Copyright 2002 By Dogproblems.com All Rights Reserved.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Does your dog not like to go out if it is raining or too cold out?

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Nearly ten thousand units have been sold almost exclusively by enthusiastic word of mouth.

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_____________________________________________________

2006-01-04T07:15:00.000-08:00

How To Handle A Dog Emergency

By Russ Richer

Have you ever thought about what you need to do should your dog – or another dog – ever suffer a serious, life-threatening injury? What if they have a severe allergy to an insect bite or a bee sting? It’s great to know your vet’s phone number, but what if something happens during off hours? What if you don’t know where the closest emergency animal clinic is located?

Any emergency is stressful and scary, and one involving that furry little four-legged member of your family is no exception. The toughest of dog owners can be instantly rendered helpless, if something’s wrong with their dogs.

1. Be Prepared

The key to getting through a veterinary emergency is preparation. You may think you have that covered with a dog first aid kit and having the phone number to your vet handy, but what if there isn’t enough time to move your dog? You need to be well-versed in some of the more common dog emergencies just in case a situation ever arises. And hey, if a situation never arises, you’ll still feel more confident knowing that you have the ability to deal with one.

2. Caring For Your Dog’s Wounds.

Did you know that you shouldn’t use hydrogen peroxide on a bleeding wound? Nope. It slows clotting to the area, which means your dog could actually lose more blood than he would if you didn’t use the peroxide at all. In fact, the best way to treat a deep, severely bleeding wound is to apply a clean cloth and hold it in place for five minutes, then tape the cloth to the wound. That original cloth should never be removed – that also slows clotting – and should instead be layered with more clean cloths if blood soaks through.

3. Treating Your Poisoned Dog.

Did you know that certain varieties of toads, salamanders, newts, and other amphibians are poisonous if licked? Hey, guess who loves to hold little woodland critters in his mouth! Your dog. If you notice your pup drooling, whining, and wiping at his mouth after a trip into the forest, get him to a clean water source and rinse his mouth thoroughly. While the poison can be fatal if left in the mouth, it’s fairly easy to cleanse from the tongue and glands.

Now imagine all of the scenarios that can happen to your dog, from fractured limbs to choking and everything in between. Do you really want to risk not knowing how to handle them? You don’t have to anymore, since I’ve written “Secrets to a Healthy and Happy Dog” to help you learn how to cope with nearly any emergency as well as have the basis for handling all of the everyday and lifelong problems and situations you’ll face with your dog. From choosing dog toys to dog cancer and everything in between, it’s all in the book… as well as how to create the most effective dog first aid kit and handle the most common emergencies. Listen, even the most experienced dog owner needs a little help and advice now and then. Secrets to a Healthy and Happy Dog is that constant source of help and advice.

If you a looking for an informative dog health book then you can't go past "Secrets to a Happy and Healthy Dog."

About the Author: Russ Richer is a Dog Lover who has done extensive research into Dog Care and Training. For free reports, articles, and newsletter visit

http://www.dogdaypets.com/newsletter.html . To learn more on Dog Health and Training, visit : http://www.dogdaypets.com/megapak.html

Source: www.isnare.com

2005-12-22T08:59:00.000-08:00

The Pro's Never Yell or Scream Commands At Their Dog

By Adam G. Katz

I never yell at my dog. Never.

Well, okay. There's one exception. And that exception is if: I'm already working with the dog at such a far distance that he can't audibly hear me. And usually this is the case only if I'm teaching the dog to respond to hand signals.

Why don't I ever raise my voice if I'm working with my dog, otherwise?

Because the only thing that raising your voice achieves is to communicate to your dog that you really DO NOT have control.

And since I train with a modified working dog approach, I want my dog to know that I'm ALWAYS in control. Because I'm the "Alpha dog."

Now, if I issue a command, and the dog I'm training does not respond to that command... then I will stop to figure out why he didn't respond. If it's because he didn't understand the command, then I need to go back to basics and do more repetitions. If the dog is simply not responding because he's being stubborn or head-strong, then I'll make my correction more motivational.

But one thing that many observers will realize about the way I work with animals is that my commands are practically whispered. Never yelled or screamed.

In fact, your commands should only be loud enough for your dog to hear. No louder.

So... do you want to know how to spot an amateur dog trainer? He's the one yelling at his dog.

A word or two on consistency and teaching your dog to "come."

If I'm teaching a dog to come on command, it's my job to convince the dog that he MUST come EVERY time I call him. But if he thinks that I'm only going to make him come every other time... or only under certain conditions... then I'll never get the dog to be 100% reliable.

So, where am I going with this line of reasoning? Well, just remember that you should NEVER give a command that you cannot enforce, until your dog is 100%. And you'll know when he is 100% when his responses to commands are immediate! Even when you're asking him to respond around the most tempting of distractions!

Do you want to be able to take your dog anywhere, and KNOW that he'll listen to you... even if tempted by another dog, a cat, or even a piece of food??? Then check out: "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History!" By Adam G. Katz, Owner of South Bay K-9 Academy and Dog Problems.com.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

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2005-12-13T10:20:00.000-08:00

5 Tips For Choosing the Best Vet For Your Dog

Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

If you haven’t already found one, or worked with one in the past, you need to find a vet. Pick one you feel comfortable with, and who answers your questions in full, completely and gives you answers you can understand. You don’t need a vet who talks down to you, or acts like you’re too dumb to understand what they’re saying!

Find a vet, if possible, who specializes in small animals (as opposed to one who treats large and small – like horses, cows, cats and dogs.) Your community may only have vets that do a little bit of everything – and there’s nothing wrong with that, if that’s all that’s available, but I’ll remind you – you usually go to a specialist for your health issues, don’t you?

If you’re new in the community, or haven’t needed a vet before – word of mouth is a great way to start looking for a new vet. Ask everybody you can get your hands on – co-workers, friends with pets, local humane societies or shelters. Ask questions: are they happy with their vet? Do they like the way they’re treated when they take their dogs in?

If your dog is a particular breed, check with the local or state breed associations to find out who they use, or local breeders. This can be especially useful if you buy a puppy from a local breeder, because the vet will have seen your puppy and know at least some of his history.

You may want a holistic vet. Go to their website at www.ahvma.org and check out their referral directory. Or contact them via phone at (410) 569-0795

You may also be interested in a veterinarian who has been trained in acupuncture through the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society. Log onto their website at http://www.ivas.org or call 970-266-0666.

Once you have a referral from someone you trust, here are some questions to ask:

1. What services does the vet offer?

Is it a one-doctor office, or a multi-doctor practice? As vets try to streamline services many are consolidating practices and forming partnerships and group practices. There’s nothing wrong with this – just be aware that you may not always see the same vet. And find out if they offer 24 hour emergency services, or if he or she is affiliated with someone in the area who does. Like everything else in life, illness or accidents don’t always happen between 8:00 a.m. and 5:00 p.m. Monday through Friday.

2. Does the vet offer a full surgery suite with on-site lab work? X-rays? Ultrasound?

If the vet has to send all lab tests to an outside agency to be processed, you may be getting popped with additional charges because those tests aren’t being performed or processed in-house.

3. Get a fee schedule.

Cost is usually one of the biggest considerations for dog owners, and it should be lowest on the list of importance, at least in my mind. Not because cost isn’t important – of course it is, but - if you have a vet that you’re happy with – who gives your dog the best care you can possibly find in your area – does paying a little extra for that care really matter in the long run?

4. Check out the physical characteristics of the facility

Is it clean, or does it smell? Are the ads or magazines in the waiting room current? (That may not sound important, but if the staff and doctors aren’t keeping up-to-date on the latest and greatest information, this may not be the place you want to bring your dog.)

5. Communication – by that I mean how well does your vet communicate with you?

Will he or she explain the condition or illness in terms that you can easily understand, or do they try to confuse you with high-tech or medical jargon? A good vet will go over treatment options with you, explain necessary tests, review x-rays or test results, give complete and clear instructions for home care or further testing requirements, etc.

Take your time to do a complete and thorough evaluation before choosing a new vet. Your dog’s life literally depends on what choice you make. Make it a careful one.

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:

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2005-12-01T07:15:00.000-08:00

How To Fix Problems With The “Fetch” or “Bring” Command.
By Adam G. Katz

Hello Adam:

I have a chocolate Labrador Retriever (very active) that is being trained (in OPEN class now) and he seems to be regressing since we are working on retrieving. He retrieves very well with the dumbbell, etc., but other dogs in the class do not. And they bring toys for their retrieval work.

My problem is that my dog is just "overcome" with these toys and isn't paying close attention to me. He goes after THEIR toy many times instead of HIS dumbbell. He knows the command "look" or WATCH ME" but serious corrections don't even deter his disobedience on this toy-retrieval.

HELP! How should I handle this?

Thank you!Mary

Dear Mary:

These are the type of questions that I like. They’re interesting.

First, make absolute 100% sure that your dog DOES understand the “Bring” or “Fetch” command. Assuming that he does, here’s the next step:

Recognize that the problem you’re having is one of disrespect. The reason that your dog goes for his neighbor’s toy AFTER you’ve clearly commanded him to BRING his dumbbell is that he CARES LESS about what you want. As the dog goes into ‘play/prey’ drive, his sensitivity to your corrections goes WAY DOWN. In other words, you’re giving him a $2 ticket and he needs a $200 ticket.

Here’s the easiest way to communicate to your dog (with this exercise) that you are serious:
Buy a remote electronic training collar. I recommend Innotek or Dogtra.

Here’s how to use it to fix your dog problem:

Follow the directions on matching the e-collar (remote electronic training collar) to your dog’s temperament.

Next, place a dumbbell on the opposite side of the room—straight in front of the dog-- and also place a distraction toy… off to the right.

Send the dog to retrieve the dumbbell. Let him wear a long line, also.

As he starts to veer to the right to go after the toy, say, “No!” in a loud, forceful tone and then immediately stimulate him with the e-collar. Re-issue the “Bring” or “Fetch” command and use the long line to redirect him back on course, as he may be confused. When the dog starts to go toward the dumbbell again, immediately begin loud verbal praise, “Good dog, Good dog.”

There you go. Now just repeat this same exercise by altering the training location and the type of distractions. After a few times you’ll be able to eliminate the long line. And after a few set-ups, the problem will be fixed.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

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2005-11-22T06:28:00.000-08:00

5 Surefire Ways to Show Your Dog You’re The Boss

Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

Do you have problems at your house with who’s in charge? By that I mean, does your dog think he’s the boss? In your effort to form a stronger bond with your dog you may have inadvertently told him he’s the Leader of the Pack. Here are 5 simple and effective ways to correct that.

You Must Be The Alpha Dog

First, let’s take a look at what a “pack mentality” means. Dogs are born into packs – in the wild, packs are the essential social order. Unlike humans, who use a variety of political processes to determine leadership and rank, dogs sort out their social order by dominance and power. In a wolf pack, there is a Top Dog – a clear leader who is the dominant, Alpha male. He’s the Big Dog, with pride of place at the dinner table (well, if wolves had a dinner table!), first in mating, first in decision making for the pack.

Whether you realize it or not, your dog views your household as his own personal wolf pack. The pack mentality is so engrained in your dog’s psyche that he will either view you as a leader - or a follower - depending on your actions. If you are to have a well-trained dog, you must establish that you are the leader, and he is the follower. Your dog has to know in his heart that you are the Alpha Dog, the Head Honcho, the Big Dog, the Top Dog – call it whatever you want, but your dog needs to know you’re in charge.

Dogs are a little like children in one respect – they’re looking for someone else to be the leader – they want rules and regulations because that makes their role in the pack more clear-cut and understandable. It’s scary being the leader – if you’re not up to it, your dog may assume the role – because someone has to be in charge!

If that’s what’s happened at your house, you need to re-establish your position as the Top Dog, or “Leader of the Pack.” But here’s an important note: being the leader of the pack has absolutely nothing to do with harsh punishment. It has everything to do with consistency and setting limits.
A simple rule to remember (and one people have great difficulty keeping in mind) is that you are the leader, not your dog.

1. You Go Through The Door First

Even something as straightforward as who walks through the door first can reinforce your position as “dominant dog.” Leaders lead. Followers follow. If you allow your dog to charge through the door ahead of you, he perceives that as asserting his dominance over you. Put your dog on the leash, and make sure you’re the first one through the door.

2. You Eat Before Your Dog

Who gets fed first in your house – you or your dog? In a wolf pack, the leader eats first, and when he is done, the rest of the pack can dine. Do you feed your dog first because he pesters you when you’re cooking your dinner, and it’s simply more convenient to have him quiet and out of the way when you’re eating?

Food is a powerful motivator that can be used to clearly demonstrate who is the ruler of the roost at your house. In no way, shape or form am I suggesting that you withhold food from your dog – that’s cruel and unusual punishment any way you look at it. What I am suggesting is that you control the timing of the food – you should eat first, your dog second, after you’re done with your meal.

3. Don’t Walk Around Your Dog

Does your dog lie on the floor and expect you to walk around him? In the wild, dominant dogs lie wherever they want, and dogs lower in the social order go around so they don’t disturb the Big Dog. If you walk around your dog, he will assume this to be an act of submission on your part; therefore he must be the leader, not you.

If your dog is lying in the middle of the hallway, or right in front of your easy chair, make him move. If he’s on the couch and you want to lie down, make him move. Don’t step over him. Just gently nudge him and make him get out of your way. You’re the Big Dog, remember?

4. You Determine When Your Dog Gets Attention

Even asking for attention or affection can be seen as an act of dominance from your dog’s point of view. Dogs that demand attention are asserting dominance, so if your dog gets pushy, ignore him. When you’re ready to give him attention or affection or pet or play with him, ask him to sit first.

Don’t run after him just so you can pet him. Make him come to you when you’re ready to give him attention, or play with him. And when you play with a toy, make sure that you end up with
possession of the toy, and then put the toy away when you’re done. (Note: I’m not talking about his favorite toys that you leave in his crate. I’m talking about play toys that the two of you use for games.)

5. Don’t Let Your Dog Sleep In Your Bed

This is a tough one for a lot of people, but when you let your dog share your bed, at best you’re making him an equal to you. He should have his own bed, either a dog pad or his crate that he feels comfortable in – you can even put the dog pad next to your bed if that makes both of you happier – but don’t let him take over the sleeping arrangements. Before you know it, he’ll be trying to make you sleep on the floor!

Again, reinforcing or retraining your dog to recognize you as the Head Honcho has absolutely nothing to do with harsh discipline. These are changes you can make that will change the way your dog thinks about you. And making even small changes like these can have an enormous impact on the way your dog views the social hierarchy in your home – all without a harsh word being spoken!

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:

http://www.dogtrainingzone.com/

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2005-11-11T05:44:00.000-08:00

Amateur Dog Trainer Offers Bad Advice On Dog Aggression Problem!
By Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam,

About a month ago, I adopted a 41/2 year old male shepherd mix at the Hawthorne SPCA . He is great except he barks (whines and cries) like he wants to play when he sees other dogs. When the dogs get close in proximity, my dog lunges and barks out of control in a very aggressive manner. At the shelter, he was housed with two other dogs (no problem).

In addition, the shelter employees confirmed that he showed no signs of dog aggression. The day I brought the dog home, I hired a trainer anticipating minor problems. The dog follows all the basic commands and is extremely well behaved until another dog shows up -- at that point his excitement gets the best of him and his interest is only in the other dog.

The trainer has recommended a halti and the "leave-it" command but the problem appears to be escalating. Recently we tried a pinch collar which seemed to be working until my dog nipped me in response to a correction for lunging /barking at another dog. Any suggestions???

Thanks,
Patty.

[ADAM REPLIES:]

Thanks for the e-mail.

Here's what I recommend:

#1: You may consider doing the following under the supervision of an experienced trainer. Not the one you've been working with, but one with experience when it comes to correcting aggression.

#2: Please note that it may not be absolutely necessary to hire a dog trainer for this specific behavior, but it depends a lot on your confidence level. Here's what I recommend: Buy a snug fitting muzzle for the dog and put it on him when you're taking him for a walk. Also make sure you're using a properly sized and fitted pinch collar.

#3: When he tries to correct you for correcting him, you're playing the "broomstick game." He's correcting you, and you must end the game by correcting him with so much motivation that he never thinks about trying to bite you again. This is all a dominance behavior on his part.It should be quick and sweet. You should not let your dog suck you into a tit for a tat game. The muzzle is so that you don't have to worry about him biting you and so that you can still get your point across. Once he understands this, your problem will be pretty much solved.

#4: Go to a Starbucks Coffee or other area where people walk their dogs on leash and put your dog on a down-stay and MAKE him stay down. He should get used to other dogs walking by and staying calm. Praise him after they walk by if he stays relaxed.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

Copyright 2002 By Dogproblems.com All Rights Reserved.

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2005-11-02T03:31:00.000-08:00

5 Ways Your Dog Senses The World Differently From You

Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

Do dogs sense things differently than humans do? Well, yes and no. Dogs share the same basic senses with us: they see, hear, touch, smell and taste. But the level of their senses is different – an important distinction when you’re trying to figure out just what your dog is doing.

Sight

It was once thought that dogs were “color-blind” – only able to see shades of black and white with some grey, but scientific studies have found that’s not true. Dogs can see in color – ranging from blues and greens to greys and crèmes, and of course, black and white. It’s been estimated that humans can distinguish somewhere between 7 and 10 million different colors. (We don’t even have names for that many colors!)

Picture courtesy of Dr. P’s site:

http://www.uwsp.edu/psych/dog/dog.htm

But dogs have it all over humans in detecting motion – that’s one reason they can detect a cat up a tree at a much greater distance than you can! And their night vision is typically better than ours – dogs have an additional reflective layer in the eye called the tapetum lucidum, which reflects light back into the receptor cells of the eye, which not only increases their night vision, but gives them that spooky appearance of eyes glowing in the dark.

Hearing

When your dog is barking like crazy in the middle of the night, don’t just assume he’s lonely and wants you to get up and keep him company. He may be listening to something that you can’t hear, that’s extremely upsetting to him – like a burglar breaking in your basement window.
Dogs can hear at four times the distance humans can – that means you might hear something from a 100 yards away your dog could hear from a quarter of a mile away. Their ears are also better designed to gather more of the available sound wave – they have 15 different muscles that move their ears in all directions, plus they can move one ear at a time – and independently of the other to absorb even more information!

Touch

Dogs also have a well-developed sense of touch, surprising perhaps under all that fur, although this sense is much less sophisticated than a human’s. Puppies are born with sensory receptors in their faces so they can find mama even if they’re separated before they open their eyes. But they also can sense touch all over their bodies, just as humans can. One reason your dog flops down on the couch next to you and tries to snuggle up on a hot day (or any other day for that matter!) is because he likes the comfort of feeling that you’re right there!

Smell

We can’t even come close to our dog’s ability to smell things. It’s been estimated that a dog’s sense of smell is 100,000 times more powerful than a human’s. Scientists think that humans have about 40 million olfactory receptors, versus 2 billion for your dog! That’s part of the reason dogs make such good trackers, and can trace scents across all sorts of distractions – like across roadways or through dense woods.

Dogs also use their sense of smell as a communications tool – when they’re running around the park with their nose to the ground, sniffing everything in sight, they’re actually reading the calling cards of everyone – dogs, humans, cats, squirrels, and anyone or anything else, that has been there before him. Which is why he may not pay attention to you when you first get to the park – he’s trying to see if any of his buddies have been there before him!

Taste

Just as with humans, taste is closely linked to the sense of smell – the main difference is humans won’t eat something that smells bad; while dogs are the opposite – the smellier the better. Dogs will gulp first and ask questions later.

While humans many times won’t eat something that doesn’t look appealing, let alone doesn’t smell good, dogs are more concerned with smell, than taste. They frequently gobble down food before they have time to chew it, let alone taste it. But that’s ok – it’s why when we clean out our refrigerators our dogs think it’s time for treats.

So the next time your dog engages in some puzzling behavior, whether it’s barking for no reason, or ignoring you at the park, he might not be trying to irritate you – he’s just responding to a different level of senses than you are. Take a moment to look around and try and figure out what’s triggering his behavior before you get mad. Your dog could be trying to tell you something!

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:

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2005-10-25T03:06:00.000-07:00

How To Tell If Your Dog Just Doesn't Understand Your Command
Or If He's Being Stubborn!
By Adam G. Katz

[RICHARD WRITES:] Dear Adam:I've been reading your book and I have a two fold question.

[To learn more about this book, Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer, take a look at: <http://www.dogproblems.com/secretsbook.htm > ]

1) What things do you look for in a dog's noncompliance to a command that would tell you whether he does not understand what you are trying to tell him or he simply does not want to do it?

[ADAM REPLIES:] It really depends on the dog. I usually do enough repetitions to the point where I'm pretty sure that the animal should understand it. Then, I'll test by not actually helping him... just give the command and a light pop. If you see that it "clicks" for the dog, and he does the command, then repeat a few more times, just so you know it wasn't a fluke. If he does it three times in a row, then you can be pretty sure that he understands the exercise (at least in that environment)... and you'll know that non-compliance is the dogs way of thumbing (or pawing) his nose at you.

[RICHARD:] For instance, I will tell the dog not to chew on the blanket with a "No bite". He will then stop for a moment or two, I will wait for about 30-45 seconds then praise him, but then he will start again. I will then snap the leash, which has the pinch collar, and again tell him no bite. Again he stops and then starts immediately again. I then correct him by snapping the leash harder and saying no bite more firmly and then he will get frustrated and snap at me, not in an effort to bite me but it seems more out of frustration‹he will mouth me at times but never press down. He is a 5 month old golden retriever and generally is very sweet so I feel like I am not always communicating well enough to him. But I also know that he understands "no bite" and I am certainly expressing it with a strong tone of voice and body language. I'm not particularly interested in you helping me with this particular example but this type of thing happens frequently, though generally he is obedient. I'm more interested in the abstract concept of assessing a situation and knowing how to remedy it.

[ADAM:] This example you've given is different than teaching an exercise, like I mention above. The example you've given falls under the category of "avoidance" training. You should not give the dog a warning without a correction for a behavior that he should never do. Also, in this situation it's very clear that you're not communicating to him. It's not that he doesn't understand, but rather that again, he's thumbing his nose at you. He doesn't care what you say. Since you've been working with the dog, you know from experience where his sensitivity level is. So, the first time he chews, you need to say "No!" and then give a correction. The correction should be as strong as the third correction you were building up to before. If the dog snaps back at you, this is his way of saying, "Bug off... I'm the alpha dog, and I'M the one who gives the correction." You're playing the broom stick game. At this point, you need to give a much firmer correction and should see the dog display submissive body language as a way of submitting and showing you that you're the top dog. If you watch two dogs scuffle over a new toy you'll see the same behavior. Once you set him straight, you won't need to correct him so hard the next time.

[RICHARD:] 1a) Given the former question, how do I know when I am over correcting him and should either redirect him to a different exercise, let him play, or just leave him alone?

[ADAM:] With a 5 months old dog... you'll know. It will be abundantly obvious. Also, when doing avoidance training, overcorrecting (while not necessary) is not as much of a concern as when doing obedience exercises. Why? Because you don't care so much if the dog has a good attitude or a bad attitude towards not chewing on your couch. You just don't want him to do it any more. If the correction is motivational, or if it's overly motivational, in either case he'll drop the behavior. It's only if the correction is less than motivational that the dog will continue to do the behavior, or if you're missing one of the other two keys to behavior modification that I talk about in the book. Timing and consistency.

[RICHARD:] To expand...I know what I want to the dog to do. I know the dog knows how to do it. But I run him through the drill and he won't respond. So how many times do I correct him and give him the opportunity to "make the right choice" before I should stop working on that drill and have him do something else?

[ADAM:] That depends. You should only work the dog on a new exercise for 10 or 15 minutes. Sometimes less. If you're 100% sure that the dog knows how to do it, then you're dealing with a dog who is actually calling the shots. You need to make him do it. If you're truly working out dominance issues with your dog, I will not quit until I've made the dog do it. If you let the dog win and not complete the exercise, then the dog learns that next time, all he needs to do is hold out long enough and you'll eventually give in. If I'm rehabilitating a stubborn dog like this... I'll be out there for as long as it takes. Sometimes 45 minutes to an hour if need be. The issue isn't so much doing the exercise, but rather demonstrating to the dog that I'm more stubborn than he is, and that I always win. Why?

Because I'm the Alpha dog.

[RICHARD:] Thanks for your help.

[ADAM REPLIES:] Best regards.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

Copyright 2002 By Dogproblems.com All Rights Reserved.

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2005-10-14T08:42:00.000-07:00

Why Your Puppy Nips - And 5 Ways To Get Him To Stop
Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

Here’s a news flash – puppies nip!

Okay, I guess you already knew that. But here’s the surprise – you may actually be encouraging your puppy to nip. Let’s talk about how to stop this behavior before it grows up to be an adult-sized dog problem.

Puppies are a lot like babies – they use their mouths in part to explore their world. Little kids are forever sticking things in their mouth – from your favorite house plant to the bar of soap in the tub. That’s one of the ways they experience taste and texture, and figure out what’s good and what’s not. It’s all about experimentation.

Puppies are the same. They want to see just how soft your finger is, or what that leash tastes like. In addition, biting or nipping is an important part of learning social skills in their “wolf” pack – the social structure that makes up your dog’s life.

And with some breeds, such as Border Collies, biting or nipping is even more instinctive because of the nature of the breed – they’re born and bred to herd livestock, and that’s how a 50 or 60 pound dog will control a 1,000 pound cow – by biting at the heels or nose.

If your dog was allowed to remain with mom and his littermates for an appropriate amount of time (until at least 8 weeks of age), then mom should have taught him the beginnings of bite inhibition. As the pups began to grow and develop those needle-sharp little puppy teeth, mom would have disciplined him for being too rough, either with her or his littermates. Junior soon learns that all play will stop and he’ll get smacked down by mom if he gets carried away.

But when you get that puppy home, and he becomes part of the family, you may be encouraging him to nip by letting the kids run away from him, squealing and giggling in an effort to play “chase” games. While this is cute at the beginning, it can soon turn into a full-fledged problem when he’s no longer such a small, cute puppy, and views any child running away as fair game.
You can also encourage this kind of bad behavior by teasing him with toys – holding them just above his head and yanking them out of range when he jumps for the toy or nips at it. (This also encourages another bad habit: jumping.)

Here’s 5 things you can do to stop your puppy from nipping.

1. When your puppy does nip – stop all play

If your puppy nips too hard, say “Ouch!” in a loud-enough voice to surprise him (don’t start off by screaming!) and stop all play. Turn your back on him, and refuse to continue the game. He should come around to face you and find out what’s wrong – tell him “bad dog – no bite” in a firm tone of voice. Do this every time he nips until he gets the idea that nipping means no more fun.

2. Replace your flesh with a toy

When you’ve resumed play, and if your puppy tries to nip again, try replacing your hand or arm (or whatever’s being nipped) with a toy. Teach your puppy that you’re not the toy. Put a toy in between you and those needle-sharp teeth!

3. The Nose Tap

If your puppy nips turn to him immediately and give him the “sit” command. Take your forefinger and hold it up in front of his nose, then tap him on the nose and say “no bite” in a stern tone of voice. It’s important to note two things here: 1) the nose tap isn’t designed as a dire punishment – you’re not trying to hurt him, but rather startle him into stopping the behavior; and 2) your tone of voice is just as important as the nose tap. Don’t scream at him – your voice should be stern and give a clear warning – think of it as a verbal growl – something that he can understand as a dog.
An interesting result of this manner of breaking this habit is that down the road, when your puppy has learned to recognize the raised finger – he’ll usually stop whatever behavior he’s engaging in just because he knows what’s coming. You won’t even have to raise your voice – just lift that finger.

4. Don’t encourage biting or nipping in the first place

Don’t let the kids start “chase” games – that encourages dogs to think that the kids are prey. Don’t play games that involve waving your hands in front of your dog and encouraging him to jump or nip.
Don’t play tug-of-war with your dog – it will not only encourage him to think he’s your equal, it can promote nipping if you use a rope toy, for example, because he’ll try to bite at your hands to make you lose your grip on the toy.

Play games of fetch and retrieval, but be sure that your dog knows the “drop” or “release” command so you’re not fighting over the toy.

5. Be consistent

Stop the nipping behavior as soon as it starts, and be consistent about disciplining your puppy for it. Don’t let him get away with nipping on one day, and then discipline for the same behavior the next. Dogs don’t understand “sometimes it’s ok,” or “maybe it’s ok it you don’t nip too hard and I’m in a good mood.“ They understand “Don’t ever do that,” and “No more treats if you do that.”

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:
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2005-10-05T10:28:00.000-07:00

Dog Too Spoiled To Walk On Leash...

By Adam G. Katz

Dear Mr. Katz:

I have a 4 month old female pup, AmStaff/Boxer (we think - she was a rescue). She responds well to all training, EXCEPT for walking and heeling.

We've practiced the loose-leash "turning on a dime" technique described in your book and audio tape at length, but she refuses to cooperate.

[See www.dogproblems.com/secretsbook.htm ]

It's not a matter of distraction - when I attempt to train her in this style, she pulls back with all her strength. When the loose leash is snapped, she sits, paws braced, or lays down on her back. These responses are immediate.

I've tried instantly righting her, and continuing the training, but she responds as above just as quickly. This can go on indefinitely. I've tried correcting her with a low "No," and praising her if she responds correctly for even an instant. I've tried using treats to get her to at least walk with me briefly...... all to no success.

What else should I try?
Thanks,
Geoff

Dear Geoff,

It's a good question you've asked.

First, you DO NOT want to work the dog around distractions at this point in the game.

Second, you should not be telling the dog, "No!" and jerking the leash for this behavior. Instead, you need to simply glue the leash to your belt and keep walking.

Now here's where your problem will arise: You've already inadvertently taught your dog that if she kicks and screams long enough (or rolls on her back and throws a tantrum)... that eventually you will stop walking and come to see what's wrong.

The only problem is... NOTHING IS WRONG!

It's like if I take you in a helicopter and drop you off in the middle of the desert and tell you that I'm going to leave you there, but will eventually come back and pick you up in half an hour (or 2 hours, or a whole day!!!) ... you will simply sit there and not attempt to remedy your situation, as you know that I'm coming back to pick you up. Eventually, this situation will end and I'll come back and your problems will be over.

However, if I instead drop you off in the middle of the desert and tell you that I'm never coming back... then all of the sudden you're in a position where you MUST START TRYING DIFFERENT THINGS TO BETTER YOUR SITUATION.

Maybe you start to look for some twigs you can start a smoke fire with, to draw the attention of an airplane overhead.

Or perhaps you climb on top of a rock, to look for a nearby highway so that you can hitch hike to a nearby pay phone.

But the point is... you start actively looking for a solution because you IMMEDIATELY REALIZE THAT YOUR SITUATION WILL NOT SIMPLY END BY ITSELF.

And this is the same thing you need to teach your dog. And it's a lesson that will extend beyond this one exercise. Your dog must learn that just because she does not want to do something DOES NOT mean that you will give in and let her not do the exercise.

BECAUSE THIS CREATES A SPOILED DOG.

So... what should you do? The answer is really quite simple. Just keep walking. No matter how much the dog kicks and screams and throws a tantrum, remember: You're not asking her to do anything she cannot do if she chooses. We're asking her to SIMPLY WALK WITH YOU.

Now, in light of everything you've already taught her (remember, every action you do teaches your dog something)... you may have to keep walking a quarter of a mile before she finally realizes that you're not stopping and that it's easier to walk alongside you than it is to be dragged on her rump.

Trust me... it won't be a pretty scene for your neighbors to look out their window and see you dragging your dog on her rump down the street.

But when you will be able to take that same dog out for a casual stroll later that evening, your neighbors will wonder if you didn't trade your dog in for a different one and will gasp at how well she walks alongside you on the leash.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

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2005-09-19T11:24:00.000-07:00

The Right Leash and Collar for Your Dog

By CharlieLafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

In the past, when people spoke of training collars, they really generally were referring to “choke chains.” A choke chain is a metal chain with a sliding ring that is attached to your dog’s nylon or leather leash.
There’s a reason it’s called a choke chain. Because there is no limit on how tight the training collar can pull against your dog’s neck, there exists a very real possibility it can choke him, as well as cause other injuries, such as:

Severely sprained necks
Tracheal and esophageal damage
Injured ocular vessels
Cases of fainting
Transient foreleg paralysis
Laryngeal nerve paralysis
Hind leg ataxia

And if you think I’m kidding about any of these injuries: I’m not; they’re all well-documented cases taken from hundreds of veterinary practices who have treated the dogs injured by choke chains.

Bottom line? In the hands of an experienced trainer, a choke chain can be used appropriately, but for the most part, your average person has no idea what an appropriate use of a choke chain entails.

My own personal preference is for a flat buckle collar, either nylon or leather, which can be used for training and everyday use. It should fit snugly, but leave room enough for you to slide two fingers between the collar and your dog’s neck. Any looser than that, and it may slide off over your dog’s head. Any tighter and it may cause chafing and discomfort.

The choice of nylon or leather is simply a matter of personal preference – nylon comes in a variety of bright colors, and is a good choice for dogs that spend a lot of time in the water (or mud!) Leather is durable and will absorb oils from your dog’s coat, making it more flexible over time.

The width of the collar should be appropriate to your dog’s size. For example, a wide, heavy or thick collar just won’t work on a Chihuahua, in fact, it would look ridiculous. By the same token, if you have a Rottweiler, a diamond- or rhine-stone-studded poodle collar is going to look pretty silly. And don’t forget an identification tag – if your dog is lost or stolen, this is a quick way for authorities to notify you when your pet is located.

Another terrific solution is a harness – a device that goes around the neck and ribcage, thus eliminating the possibility of choking. Harnesses are an excellent resolution to the problem of having a large dog that hasn’t been well-trained and pulls or lunges when out for a walk. It’s a great way to restrain the pulling without getting in that choking “tug of war” that you sometimes see. Harnesses are also good for small dogs, which can have serious problems with collars pressing on their small and fragile airways.

Now for the proper leash. As with collars, you have a choice of flat nylon or leather (or braided leather is also available), and as with collars, it’s largely a matter of personal preference.

I use a 6 foot nylon leash for training my dog. I find it’s the perfect length for walking, heeling and virtually all of my training sessions.

Many dog owners prefer a retractable leash. These are nylon leashes that are encased in a plastic casing, and vary in length up to about 25 feet or so. The best models of this type have a one-button “braking” system that stops your dog from going beyond a set distance, as well as a spring mechanism that allows you to adjust just how far you want to extend the lead.

Retractable leashes are a good idea if you walk your dog in a variety of settings: you can “reel” him in if you’re on city sidewalks or in situations where there are a lot of people or other dogs around, then you can expand the distance between you when you get to the park or an open space.

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:
www.DogTrainingZone.com

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2005-09-09T01:56:00.000-07:00

Dog Training-- How To Teach Your Dog To Come Every Time You Call Him…

Summarized Down To One Sentence…

By Adam Katz

Visit Dogproblems.com for more dog training information.

Dear Adam:

First of all, let me just say how much I have enjoyed your book. I cannot believe the difference in the behavior of my two dogs since I started using the pinch collars and your techniques. I accomplished in about 15 minutes what two obedience classes could not - I got both of my dogs walking on loose leads. Amazing. Also, both will do a good down stay around most distractions - we're working on proofing now.

I have a 19 month old border collie cross and an 11 month old lab cross. Both are females and great dogs. My main problem at this point is having success with the recall command. I guess you could say that I feel I could use more detailed instruction here.

I've been working with a 20 foot line in a nearby park as outlined in your book. Things work fairly well when we're alone (i.e. minimal distractions) but this park is also a fairly popular off-leash area and when other dogs arrive I usually give up and take the line off - otherwise it just becomes a tangled mess. How can I introduce "controlled" distractions and how should I go about getting my dog's attention? I mean, at this point my dog becomes deaf when she comes across something on the ground that smells good, never mind another dog or person. I just want to be sure that I'm getting my timing right with the command and correction or praise. I'm hoping that you can help me with this - our Canadian exchange rate makes the cost of ordering your video rather prohibitive at this point! Just being honest.

One last thing - both dogs will walk on a loose leash when I walk them individually, but the younger one tends to want to walk ahead when I've got them out together. Is there a way to correct this, or do I need to walk them separately for a while longer? I guess that I've just asked a second question, so you can ignore this one if you want. I more concerned with the recall anyway.

Thanks so much. Your book has been so helpful and I've recommended it to several friends.
Shannon

Dear Shannon:

First, if you take the long line off the dog, then you’re undoing everything you’ve just attempted to teach your dog. Now you have NO WAY of making the dog come back to you.

Remember… this isn’t rocket science. Training your dog to come back to you reliable can be boiled down to one simple piece of advice: “MAKE the dog come back to you, every time you call him… until he becomes conditioned to do it on his own.”

If you call the dog and cannot make him come… because he is not wearing the long line… THEN WHAT HAVE YOU JUST TAUGHT HIM??? You’ve taught him that he DOES NOT HAVE TO COME!

You are an excellent dog trainer. Whatever you end up teaching your dog (to come or not to come) … YOU have done an excellent job of doing it.

Now… does it matter if there are other dogs in the park, and the line gets tangled? No. (True, it’s a hassle… so you could use a 10’ line instead of a 30 foot line) But none of this should interfere with your ability to MAKE YOUR DOG COME when you call him (UNTIL HE BECOMES CONDITIONED TO COME ON HIS OWN).

If he ignores you when you tug on your leash, then this tells me that you are not tugging firmly enough to get his attention. Make sure that you’re getting slack in your line when you tug, and make sure that you’ve got the pinch collar fitted firmly enough.

As for walking two dogs at the same time… there are two things you can do:

1. Buy a coupler. This is a device that contains two 1 foot leashes that are attached together to your 6 foot leash. It kind of “Y”’s off at the end, so that you can reach down and correct one dog but not the other. Most pet stores carry these devices. (Each 1 foot leash has it’s own harness snap.)

2. As the one dog begins to forge forward, give him the “Heel” command and give a sharp snap on the leash in a rearward direction. If the dog learns that every time he starts to forge ahead of the other dog that he will feel discomfort… quite simply… you’ll notice him stop doing that behavior.

And remember… get outside and have fun with your dogs!!!

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:
Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

2005-08-30T09:05:00.000-07:00

This guy really can show you how to train your dog in minutes a day… and see results in next to no time!

Review: SitStayFetch: Dog Obedience Training – STOP Your Dog’s Behavior Problems

If you’ve been searching the internet for information to help train your unruly canine, you will have searched through mountains of information regarding the most effective way to train your dog. The frustrating thing in this search is that there is such a volume of information, that it is hard to tell the good stuff from the bad.

I am always skeptical of the wild claims that come with advertising, but I believe I may have found a treasure here. Daniel Stevens has released this e-book and it truly does represent good value for money. He talks about the reader discovering the closely guarded secrets of professional trainers, and it seems that he may have let some of them slip in his book.

At well over 100 A4 pages, this book is full of significant and highly detailed information, yet it seems to be laid out in a fashion that makes it easy for the reader. The book is divided into nine chapters or tutorials if you like. Included are programs to correct specific dog problems, the secrets to really understanding your dog, the best training methods and, for the experienced owners – dog whispering.

Daniel covers the subject areas with such detail that it is hard to find a scenario that is not covered in this book. Fixing general disobedience such as digging, chewing and barking is dealt with, as well as explaining and curing aggression problems, and even introducing a dominance treatment program for those dogs that require it. The list of possible problems seems endless, yet Daniel seems to have an explanation for all of them.

The information is well laid out and concise, much more so than many other books on the market. There is always the danger with such a volume of information that finding a specific area can be hard. No such problem here. The division of exercises and techniques into the nine tutorials is well thought out, and a quick glance through the table of contents will identify where in the book you need to be. This is particularly useful for a training guide that you will come back to several times.

The bonus e-books that come with this package add to the wealth of information already in here. They include:

“Dog Grooming Made Easy”
“Tips On How To Security Train Your Dog”
“All The House Training Methods And Tricks”
“Secrets To Becoming The Alpha Dog”

You don’t have to be a dog training expert to understand and apply this information. It explains every thing really well, and the photo sequences aid the execution of the lesson greatly. Perhaps the best thing is that you can download Dog Obedience Training and all the bonus books to your computer and be training your dog or fixing your dog's behavior in minutes.

What surprised me most about the book was the completeness of the information here. So many topics are covered. And if that’s not enough, he offers a free online consultation to customers as well. This is particularly useful if you are having difficulty with a command or have a particular dog problem that you are struggling with, or even a unique problem that is not covered in this comprehensive book package. Daniel can help you with any dog problem.
I highly recommend this product if you have a dog of any age or breed.

"Its only been a couple of days but I can see the difference in our dogs already through the training methods you outlined!..."-- Amer Wild, Texas, USA

"Very informative book written in a simple readable format. Worked a treat with my new Boxer and I would recommend this book to anyone looking to train their dog."-- George Crosby, Foreign Exchange Dealer, Wellington, New Zealand

Click here to find out more

Dozer

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2005-08-22T10:10:00.000-07:00

Teach Your Dog Commands In This Order…

By Adam Katz

Visit Dogproblems.com for more dog training information.

Dear Adam:

I bought your book about two weeks ago. Finally, someone has written a training book that makes sense. Good Job...bet it took a lot of time to put all of it together, huh?

The reason I am writing to you is because I am confused about some things that deal with teaching the down/stay and sit/stay. Tell me if this sounds like I have it right:

First, teach her (the dog) how to do the command doing repetitions and placing her in the correct position immediately after saying the command. Then, working up to the point you can just stand up straight and have her respond.

Next, work up distance and time then add distractions and practice in different places.

Finally, go to the long line and then the tab to get reliability off-leash.

[Adam: ] Actually, you should start proofing for distractions first, then move to greater distances… but only progress to greater distances with the long line. Without the long line, guess what might happen?

[He continues: ] This is how I understand the process from what I have read in your book.

Should I move on to the next step once my dog performs the command quickly and correctly for one training session or keep drilling her without adding something new?

[Adam: ] It’s going to take much more than one training session. When the dog learns something, it’s situational. So you’re going to have to work the same exercise… at the same point in the program… in several different locations before you’re ready to move onto the next step.

[ He continues: ] During proofing, is it okay to add distractions during the dogs learning phase after the dog does the command for me a couple of times correctly without being corrected?

[Adam: ] You’re confusing two things. Is the dog in the learning phase, or is he in the proofing phase? The two are very distinct. Do not move onto one phase until you’ve mastered the other.

Here is the order: Learning phase-- reinforcement phase-- proofing phase.

[He continues: ] How long does it take the 'average' dog to be taught a new command and proofed in it?

[Adam: ] This is impossible to answer. It depends upon the trainer, the dog, the exercise, the setting, how frequently the dog is worked, etc… You let the dog tell you when it’s time. This is why reading your dog is so important. It takes as long as it takes.

[ He continues: ] Do you teach the down/stay and sit/stay in one session or separately?

[Adam: ] Separately.

[ He continues: ] In what order should I teach my dog new commands?

[Adam: ] Walk on a loose leash, boundary and perimeter training, sit-stay, down-stay, heel, then come. The order that you teach commands is not written in stone, but I find that doing it this way allows for a very natural flow and learning progression.

[ He continues: ] Sorry my letter is so long...any instruction you can give me is greatly appreciated...oh, by the way I really like the book. Thank you ;)

Sincerely,Brandee N.

That's all for this week, folks!
-Adam.Dogproblems.com

P.S. A very popular question from our clients outside the United States is "will these 'Dog Training Secrets' work on dogs that have been bred outside the US (i.e. UK, Europe, Australia) or on rare breeds?" This is a valid question. I have many clients outside of the US. And yes, these techniques work on ALL dogs, regardless of breeding or background.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:

Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

Send me One Million FREE Guaranteed Visitors

2005-08-15T12:28:00.000-07:00

Never Worry About Your Dog's Bathroom Needs Again!

Do any of these scenarios sound familiar ...?

Go see for yourself - Wizdog.com

2005-08-09T07:41:00.000-07:00

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

Part 2

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage3 Months to 4 Months

The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned – just like a child does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what’s required here.

He might start biting you – play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp “No!” or “No bite!” command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem.

Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don’t play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance – especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy’s strength grows, he’s going to want to play-fight to see who’s stronger – even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it’s ok to fight with you. And that’s not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage4-6 Months

The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviors. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance.

He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage6-18 Months

The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans – and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time – just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that’s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals – allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You’ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you’ve raised a kid, doesn’t it?

(c) 2004 by Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:
http://www.DogTrainingZone.com

2005-08-01T09:12:00.000-07:00

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

Part 1

In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you at times, you need to understand each stage of development a puppy goes through as it matures.

Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations – each dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage 2-3 Weeks

The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage 3-4 Weeks

The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It’s best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period – negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage 4-7 Weeks

From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life – he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.
He’ll also learn discipline at this point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week – transition gradually as Mom weans them.

Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.

Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this period as possible. Don’t discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing – that’s all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The "I’m Afraid of Everything" Stage 8 Weeks to 3 Months

The "I’m Afraid of Everything" Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a "fearful period" that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events.

At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

c) 2004 by Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

Look out for Stages5 to 7.

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:

http://www.DogTrainingZone.com/

2005-07-25T12:52:00.000-07:00

Dog Training--

Annoying Habits Your Dog Does…

By Adam Katz

Visit Dogproblems.com for more dog training information.

Dear Adam:

My Springer Spaniel has gotten a little more resistant to the come command when she knows it means “Get in the kennel.” At night, she goes in between nine and ten. And like clock work, she wakes me up at 2:00 am. I am sure I have started a bad habit, but I am afraid the neighbors are being disturbed. She still digs once or twice a week during the day. It's like she goes into a panic after 4 to 5 hours in the kennel.

Thanks, Dick.

Dear Dick:

1. Go to her and make her come when you call her, if you do not see that she moves to respond within 1/2 a second of your command. But I personally like to use a specific command such as, “Get in the kennel.” If she doesn’t immediately move towards the kennel, I will go and get her and walk her in the kennel. If you wait to see if she’s going to respond, then she will wait to see if you’re going to make her. (That is, until the behavior has become a conditioned response.)

When you say kennel, you mean a crate-- for at night, right? If not, then this is where she should be sleeping at night. Put her in the crate and then give her a cookie. This will reinforce that going into the crate is a positive thing.

2. For the outside kennel, buy some hardware mesh or chicken wire and put it under the entire kennel run and then put about an inch of dirt on top of that. Dogs don’t like digging and clawing against this type of material.

3. Increase her exercise regimen. Buy yourself a bike and take her for a 2 mile run each day. It’s good for you, too… and it will work wonders in reducing your dog’s boredom.
Best regards,
Adam.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:

Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

2005-07-14T12:40:00.000-07:00

When Should I Start Training My Puppy?

If you have a puppy, you must start training early, but do it gently.

Your puppy has to have confidence in you before he can begin learning. Remember that puppies are like children - they have growing bodies, short attention spans, and will only learn things when the conditions are right and when they understand what it is you're trying to teach them.

That said, the earlier you start training dogs, the better. More specifically, it's best if you start “socialization” from 8 weeks, simple commands like “come” and “sit” from 12 weeks, and more intensive training at 5 to 6 months.

**************

While some early training can be started as soon as you bring your puppy home, the optimum time to begin obedience training is somewhere around 9 to 12 weeks of age.

Keep in mind that training can cover a broad range of topics – I’m not suggesting that you begin training your puppy at 8 weeks of age for agility competitions! Your training should start off with the basics – teaching him “No!” and beginning house-training.

Socialization skills are next – experts tell us the best window for your puppy to learn socialization skills is between 3 and 16 weeks – that’s the best time to insure that your puppy grows into a well-adjusted adult.

And remember, socialization isn’t about teaching him the right fork to use at the dinner table – it’s about giving your dog the self-assurance to deal correctly with any social environment he finds himself in is one of the most valuable and lasting lessons you can teach him.

A well-socialized dog will interact well with all types of people and situations, even those he has never been in before. With appropriate social skills, your dog will show little or no fear of most objects, people or other animals, and even if startled, will recover quickly and won’t panic.

Bottom line, a well-adjusted dog is one that is comfortable in a variety of situations and surroundings. He may be excited in a new setting, but not fearful. The key here is to create positive experiences as you expose your dog to more and more new situations.

Even training your puppy for 5 – 10 minutes per day as soon as you bring him home will make a big difference in the social skills and adaptability of your puppy.

Keep in mind that puppies have very short attention spans, so keep your lessons short and fun. How short an attention span? That depends on the age of the puppy, his breed and how mature your individual puppy is – but a good rule of thumb is to keep the training sessions within that 5 -10 minute range.

Depending on your puppy’s age and maturity level, sometime between 3 and 6 months of age you should be moving the training into the area of the basic commands such as Sit, Heel, Down, etc.

It’s important you have realistic expectations about your dog’s capabilities at this point – I don’t expect a puppy to be responding to the basic commands with any degree of regularity until they’ve reached 6 months of age.

And if you want to start today . . . just click here to check out my book “Dog Training Secrets!”

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:

http://www.dogtrainingzone.com

2005-07-12T07:27:00.000-07:00

Discover How To Slash Your Dog Training Time In Half

by Using Techniques That Give You Immediate Results!

Fact #1
In the majority of cases, it’s the owners that need training, not the dog. Discover the secrets to being the greatest dog owner!
Fact #2
You should never use the “Come” command to call your dog to discipline him. Find out why!
Fact #3
Find out all about the hottest and most humane dog training technique currently being used – Dog Whispering!

Dog Obedience Training – STOP Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!Click here to find out more…

Daniel Stevens is the author of the hugely popular "SitStayFetch: Dog Obedience Training - STOP Your Dog’s Behavior Problems!", and now he’s revealed the secrets and techniques that professional dog training experts use including:

Powerful techniques to solve ANY dog problem such as house training, curbing your dog’s aggressiveness, nuisance barking, digging, destructive chewing, fixing general disobedience, and much more…
How to train your dog to learn any command, with over 100 detailed photos included!
How to make your dog understand you. Remove the frustration and rapidly increase the speed of your dog’s learning.

…and much, much more!

To learn his secrets and transform your disobedient dog’s behavior, check out:

http://www.sitstayfetch.net

2005-07-11T07:58:00.000-07:00

A Trained Dog Without A Trained Owner Is Like Owning A Ferrari Sports Car, But Not Knowing How To Drive!

By Adam G. Katz

The frustrating thing about being in the dog training business is coming to the realization that 90% of your time is spent training people, rather than dogs.

To really deliver the results, a professional dog trainer must train the owner how to train their dog. Rather than just going in and training the dog.

Because dog training is:

A process of establishing and promoting a proper relationship between the owner and the dog…

And

Developing a way of communicating so that commands are both understood and have meaning…

... simply traing the dog doesn’t cut it. Sure, technically you’re fulfilling your part of the agreement. The owner comes to you and pays you to train the dog.

But again, because it all gets back to developing a proper relationship between the owner and the dog, if I do the training, then the dog end up developing a proper relationship with me! But when he goes home with the owner, he still has the same dysfunctional relationship he’s always had.

So, one of the things that’s really made me successful in this business has been my ability to teach the owner how to handle, train and work with his own pet. That way, even if he travels, or buys a new home… the dog is still going to respect, respond, bond and want to please his owner. (Once more, it doesn’t do the owner any good if his dog does back flips on command, but only for the trainer).

The problem with being ethical and honest about my approach to dog training (or people training, to be more specific)… is that your business model is left open to one very annoying “fly in your ointment.”

And that annoying “fly” is the fact that, even though my dog training techniques are easy to master, and work really quickly… there’s always going to be a certain small percentage of dog owners who are… well, quite frankly… idiots!

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:

Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

2005-07-06T04:48:00.000-07:00

Some Common Beginner Questions
About Dog Training…

By Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam:

[Note to readers: These questions are follow ups from issues discussed in my book, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!“ which you can read more about at:
http://www.dogproblems.com/secretsbook.htm ]

1. What age should I start using the prong collar?

[Adam replies: ] Generally speaking, at about four months of age… when you see the adult teeth begin to come in.

2. What should I be teaching, obedience wise, with 8
month puppy?

[Adam replies: ] At eight months of age, there really isn’t ANYTHING you can’t teach the dog, obedience-wise.

3. When you say pop, when teaching the down command,
do you mean I should pop the prong collar? So for
example if the dog gets up from down/stay position and
walk away, you said to say NO, pop the leash, then say
NO all the way back to manhole, then pop the leash
again? Do you mean to pop the prong or to guide him
into down/stay position?

[Adam replies: ] When I say “pop” I mean to tug on the leash. Make sure you’re starting and ending with slack. So, you say, “No!” then go to the dog and give a pop on the leash, then walk him back to the spot and reissue the “down” command… and then “pop” downward (or to the side) on the leash and put him back into the down position.

5. What's the difference between obedience training and sport training (i.e. Schutzhund)? Why do they say you shouldn't train your dog in obedience if you want him to be in Schutzhund? (I just want to know for my own knowledge)

[Adam replies: ] Schutzhund is a dog sport the incorporates an obedience routine, as well as a protection and tracking routine. The obedience exercises are mostly route exercises, and are not trained in a street-smart context. As for why you supposedly shouldn't train your dog in obedience if you want him to be in Schutzhund… this is a myth. Some macho types will consistently over-correct their dog in the obedience phase… and this will kill drive. But anyone with even a shred of common sense will avoid this predicament.

6. What do you think of raw diets for dogs? Worth it??

[Adam replies: ] Not worth it. Feed the dog a high quality dog food and your dog will be fine.

7. What order should I teach the dog the commands?
(first sit, then down then come?? How should I do it?)

[Adam replies: ] I like to teach the “Walk on a loose leash” exercise first, followed by the curb/street/boundary training, as this teaches the dog what a correction is (if he doesn’t know already). Then you can teach exercises in any order you wish. To be honest, the order of basic exercises is largely irrelevant. It DOES become relevant in later training, when you begin chaining behaviors together, such as “Go to the fridge, open door, retrieve beer, then close door.”

8. To teach the dog to not run out of the house, when
I slam the door I'm afraid it is going slam on him too
hard and hurt him. How do I go about doing it? Do I
shut it softly or will he be fast enough to stop?

[Adam replies: ] You’re thinking too much. Just slam the door shut. Assuming it’s not a toy breed, it’s not going to kill him. If it is a toy breed, keep your hand on the door and guide it shut. The idea is that the door slams on the dog… not to injure the dog, but to be uncomfortable so that he waits and watches you for the “release“ command before walking through. You are the alpha dog. You walk through first. It is your job to make sure it‘s safe for him to leave the property, and he needs to look to you for the “It‘s Okay“ cue. If you don’t give the “A-okay” cue… then bad things could happen. Like the door suddenly slamming shut. Ever sit on a dirty chair and ruin a clean pair of slacks? Once it happens to you, you’ll always check first. It’s the same concept with the dog.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:

Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!