This guy really can show you how to train your dog in minutes a day… and see results in next to no time!

Review: SitStayFetch: Dog Obedience Training – STOP Your Dog’s Behavior Problems

If you’ve been searching the internet for information to help train your unruly canine, you will have searched through mountains of information regarding the most effective way to train your dog. The frustrating thing in this search is that there is such a volume of information, that it is hard to tell the good stuff from the bad.

I am always skeptical of the wild claims that come with advertising, but I believe I may have found a treasure here. Daniel Stevens has released this e-book and it truly does represent good value for money. He talks about the reader discovering the closely guarded secrets of professional trainers, and it seems that he may have let some of them slip in his book.

At well over 100 A4 pages, this book is full of significant and highly detailed information, yet it seems to be laid out in a fashion that makes it easy for the reader. The book is divided into nine chapters or tutorials if you like. Included are programs to correct specific dog problems, the secrets to really understanding your dog, the best training methods and, for the experienced owners – dog whispering.

Daniel covers the subject areas with such detail that it is hard to find a scenario that is not covered in this book. Fixing general disobedience such as digging, chewing and barking is dealt with, as well as explaining and curing aggression problems, and even introducing a dominance treatment program for those dogs that require it. The list of possible problems seems endless, yet Daniel seems to have an explanation for all of them.

The information is well laid out and concise, much more so than many other books on the market. There is always the danger with such a volume of information that finding a specific area can be hard. No such problem here. The division of exercises and techniques into the nine tutorials is well thought out, and a quick glance through the table of contents will identify where in the book you need to be. This is particularly useful for a training guide that you will come back to several times.

The bonus e-books that come with this package add to the wealth of information already in here. They include:

“Dog Grooming Made Easy”
“Tips On How To Security Train Your Dog”
“All The House Training Methods And Tricks”
“Secrets To Becoming The Alpha Dog”

You don’t have to be a dog training expert to understand and apply this information. It explains every thing really well, and the photo sequences aid the execution of the lesson greatly. Perhaps the best thing is that you can download Dog Obedience Training and all the bonus books to your computer and be training your dog or fixing your dog's behavior in minutes.

What surprised me most about the book was the completeness of the information here. So many topics are covered. And if that’s not enough, he offers a free online consultation to customers as well. This is particularly useful if you are having difficulty with a command or have a particular dog problem that you are struggling with, or even a unique problem that is not covered in this comprehensive book package. Daniel can help you with any dog problem.
I highly recommend this product if you have a dog of any age or breed.

"Its only been a couple of days but I can see the difference in our dogs already through the training methods you outlined!..."-- Amer Wild, Texas, USA

"Very informative book written in a simple readable format. Worked a treat with my new Boxer and I would recommend this book to anyone looking to train their dog."-- George Crosby, Foreign Exchange Dealer, Wellington, New Zealand

Click here to find out more


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Teach Your Dog Commands In This Order…

By Adam Katz

Visit Dogproblems.com for more dog training information.

Dear Adam:

I bought your book about two weeks ago. Finally, someone has written a training book that makes sense. Good Job...bet it took a lot of time to put all of it together, huh?

The reason I am writing to you is because I am confused about some things that deal with teaching the down/stay and sit/stay. Tell me if this sounds like I have it right:

First, teach her (the dog) how to do the command doing repetitions and placing her in the correct position immediately after saying the command. Then, working up to the point you can just stand up straight and have her respond.

Next, work up distance and time then add distractions and practice in different places.

Finally, go to the long line and then the tab to get reliability off-leash.

[Adam: ] Actually, you should start proofing for distractions first, then move to greater distances… but only progress to greater distances with the long line. Without the long line, guess what might happen?

[He continues: ] This is how I understand the process from what I have read in your book.

Should I move on to the next step once my dog performs the command quickly and correctly for one training session or keep drilling her without adding something new?

[Adam: ] It’s going to take much more than one training session. When the dog learns something, it’s situational. So you’re going to have to work the same exercise… at the same point in the program… in several different locations before you’re ready to move onto the next step.

[ He continues: ] During proofing, is it okay to add distractions during the dogs learning phase after the dog does the command for me a couple of times correctly without being corrected?

[Adam: ] You’re confusing two things. Is the dog in the learning phase, or is he in the proofing phase? The two are very distinct. Do not move onto one phase until you’ve mastered the other.

Here is the order: Learning phase-- reinforcement phase-- proofing phase.

[He continues: ] How long does it take the 'average' dog to be taught a new command and proofed in it?

[Adam: ] This is impossible to answer. It depends upon the trainer, the dog, the exercise, the setting, how frequently the dog is worked, etc… You let the dog tell you when it’s time. This is why reading your dog is so important. It takes as long as it takes.

[ He continues: ] Do you teach the down/stay and sit/stay in one session or separately?

[Adam: ] Separately.

[ He continues: ] In what order should I teach my dog new commands?

[Adam: ] Walk on a loose leash, boundary and perimeter training, sit-stay, down-stay, heel, then come. The order that you teach commands is not written in stone, but I find that doing it this way allows for a very natural flow and learning progression.

[ He continues: ] Sorry my letter is so long...any instruction you can give me is greatly appreciated...oh, by the way I really like the book. Thank you ;)

Sincerely,Brandee N.

That's all for this week, folks!
-Adam.Dogproblems.com

P.S. A very popular question from our clients outside the United States is "will these 'Dog Training Secrets' work on dogs that have been bred outside the US (i.e. UK, Europe, Australia) or on rare breeds?" This is a valid question. I have many clients outside of the US. And yes, these techniques work on ALL dogs, regardless of breeding or background.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book:

Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

Copyright 2002 By Dogproblems.com All Rights Reserved.

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The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

Part 2

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage3 Months to 4 Months

The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned – just like a child does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what’s required here.

He might start biting you – play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp “No!” or “No bite!” command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem.

Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don’t play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance – especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy’s strength grows, he’s going to want to play-fight to see who’s stronger – even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it’s ok to fight with you. And that’s not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage4-6 Months

The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you – expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviors. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result – so don’t take the chance.

He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage6-18 Months

The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans – and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time – just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that’s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals – allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You’ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you’ve raised a kid, doesn’t it?

(c) 2004 by Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:
http://www.DogTrainingZone.com

The 7 Stages of Puppy Development

Part 1

In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you at times, you need to understand each stage of development a puppy goes through as it matures.

Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations – each dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage 2-3 Weeks

The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage 3-4 Weeks

The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It’s best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period – negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage 4-7 Weeks

From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life – he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.
He’ll also learn discipline at this point – Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week – transition gradually as Mom weans them.

Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.

Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age – that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this period as possible. Don’t discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing – that’s all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The "I’m Afraid of Everything" Stage 8 Weeks to 3 Months

The "I’m Afraid of Everything" Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a "fearful period" that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events.

At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

c) 2004 by Charlie Lafave, author, "Dog Training Secrets!"

Look out for Stages5 to 7.

To transform your stubborn, misbehaving dog into a loyal, well-behaving "best friend" who obeys your every command and is the envy of the neighborhood, visit:

http://www.DogTrainingZone.com/